November 19, 2011

Cherry (Almond) Ice Cream

Robin, 12 July 2011, ‘Summer Fruit and Squishiness’

2/3 c milk

1 egg plus one extra yolk

½ c granulated sugar

¼ tsp vanilla

1 lb sweet cherries

1 ounce slivered almonds

2/3 c whipping cream

Scald milk, set aside to cool.  Mix the egg and the yolk in the top of a double boiler/bain marie with the sugar and beat like mad, till it turns pale and ribbons off the spoon.  (Your electric mixer is your friend.)    Pour on the slightly cooled milk;  place over gently simmering water and stir till thick.  Stir in the vanilla and leave to cool.

Stone your cherries.  Ugh.  This is the worst bit.  You will need more than a pound, of course, because you’ll eat some of them to sustain morale.  I’m not sure how to allow for this, since the original weight includes the stones, which you are discarding.  Make your best guess.  The original recipe tells you to put the stoned bits in a food processor and buzz them to puree, but I think this is unsporting.  I just kind of rip them up some in the stoning process.  You do want enough pulp to turn your ice cream red, but I don’t think you can avoid this with dark expoding-sweet high-summer cherries.  Stir them, in whatever form, into the custard.  Whip the cream till it forms soft peaks.  Fold into the cherry mixture.  Pour the lot into your ice cream maker and do what it tells you to do to produce ice cream.

While your custard is becoming ice cream, toast your almonds.  The original recipe tells you to fold them into the finished ice cream, but unless you’re going to eat it all in one go, I wouldn’t;  the almonds will go soft.  I sprinkle them on per serving.  This will, I admit, probably mean that you need more almonds, but hey.

Lemon ice

Posted by Robin in Lemon Flavoured Wreckage

08 June 2009

Lemon ice

4-6 lemons, unwaxed and organic

1 c sugar

Optional:  strawberries

More sugar

Wash the lemons.  Then cut the zest off approximately two of them–depending on how big they are and what shape their skins are in.  But if you can’t get at least unwaxed lemons and preferably organic, I wouldn’t bother with the zest:  you really don’t want to eat fungicidal wax and merely washing ‘em doesn’t really get the nasty stuff off.**   If you can’t get organic and are going zest-free, add about a quarter teaspoon of lemon essence to your sugar syrup.

If you are cutting your zest off . . . after dutifully using a grater for several years*** I discovered by accident that a small sharp knife is actually better because you can follow the curve of your lemon:  I find it’s almost impossible not to get some of the bitter white pith mixed up in the works with a grater.  And you don’t have to do it beautifully here:  you’re going to strain it later anyway.

Dump the sugar, the zest, and 2c water in a saucepan and heat slowly till the sugar dissolves.  Keep the heat low enough so you don’t have to stand there stirring constantly to prevent the sugar burning.  Stir occasionally. Simmer a while, say 5-15 minutes.  Take it off the heat, let cool, and put it in the refrigerator for several hours or overnight.  Leave your lemons out to stay at room temperature.  There’s nothing crankier than a cold lemon, and you want the juice.

After your lemon syrup has been seething long enough, squeeze your nice warm cooperative lemons.  You want ½ c juice.  Strain the lemon juice.  Strain the syrup to get rid of the zest and add the lemon juice.  Stir a few times.  Start your ice-cream machine and do whatever you have to do to make ice cream.

I rebelled long ago at the idea that you’re supposed to puree all the fruit you put in ice cream.  You do have to decide how you feel about the texture of frozen fruit and how big you want your chunks to be.  I chop my strawberries relatively small and lavish more sugar over them and let them seethe while the ice cream gets made.  Then at more or less the last minute of the ice-cream-making process you can dump your strawberries and their by-now-heavily-strawberry-infused sugar syrup in the ice cream maker and let it run just enough longer to mix the strawberries in.  This may vary with your ice-cream maker but if you stand over it and turn it off at the perfect moment you can get this excellent marbled effect (if your reflexes are good enough and you like living dangerously, you can assist with a spoon while the machine is still running), and the strawberry ribbons will be slightly crunchy with undissolved sugar.  I like this result, but you may not.  Strawberries merely politely scattered over your lemon ice lying in its dish is also good, but unless your strawberries are at the absolute perfect pinnacle of ripeness I recommend you sugar them one way or another, or the collision of acids with the intense lemonyness of the ice will not be agreeable.  (You can also make strawberry sauce. I’ll post a recipe some day.)

The lemon ice on its own is also very pleasing, but it is strawberry season.

** I am so glad organic unwaxed lemons exist. When I was first going seriously crunchy granola, which is about a quarter-century ago now, unwaxed organic lemons did not exist, unless you had your own heated conservatory and grew them.  I had a lovely little zester gadget that I THREW AWAY because I assumed I’d never use it again. . . .


^ I THREW MY ZESTER OUT sounds like a particularly lurid tell-all memoir.  But then I have a low mind.

Cinnamon Ice Cream

Diane in MN, 6 April 09, comment to ‘Apricots’

1 cup heavy cream, 2 cups half and half, 1/2 cup sugar, 2 TBSP cinnamon (or to taste). Put it in the [ice cream maker] machine and that’s it.

Ice Cream (with chocolate variation)

Abigailmm,11 April 09, Recipe Thread

This is the traditional recipe we have been making for half a century or more in my family. The custard, cooled but not frozen, with a suitable admixture of “the flavoring” (generally bourbon) was my great-aunts’ holiday concoction, served in small cups with cake and called “boiled custard.”

This is a large recipe, for a traditional ice-filled crank freezer. Makes 1-1/2 gallons.

11 cups milk
1 can evaporated milk
2 cups cream
3-1/2 cups sugar
8 beaten eggs
2 Tbsp gelatin or 4 Tbsp flour
3 Tbsp vanilla (good-quality, real vanilla)
3/8 tsp salt (I think you can leave this out)

Heat half of milk with sugar, eggs, salt, and flour. If gelatin used, omit flour and add softened gelatin after taking off heat. Cook, stirring constantly, until it coats the spoon. Add remainder of milk, cream, and vanilla. Cool. Freeze.

For incredibly deep dark not-too-sweet chocolate, my invention is to add 1 cup of cocoa powder and a 12-ounce bag of semi-sweet chocolate chips before heating. Stir and stir, both to keep it from sticking and to get the chips to melt and mix. Mmmmmmmm!

This sticks and burns easily if you don’t stir pretty religiously. For a smaller recipe divided down to fit one of the newer freezers, I would recommend a double boiler. It will take longer, though.

Allow ample time for the hot custard to cool and then be chilled in the refrigerator till thoroughly cold before attempting to freeze. For a gallon and a half, it takes quite a while.

Frozen Chocolate Chinchilla

Anette the Great Dane, 14 July 08, comment to ‘Proofs’ and subsequently by Robin, 15 July, as ‘Ice Heroine’

Now, before anyone start accusing me of covering small animals with chocolate, I better explain that a chinchilla can be both – though not normally at the same time – a small fur-bearing animal and a soft cake made almost entirely of beaten egg whites.
6 egg whites,
125 g (5 oz) grated dark chocolate or 4 tablespoons pure cocoa and 5 tablespoons sugar,
2 tablespoons chopped nuts,
3 teaspoons ground cinnamon or coffee powder (not instant).
Beat the egg whites very stiff, fold in the other ingredients, and bake (medium heat) or steam for about 1 hour. A chinchilla is normally eaten warm or tepid, but I like to eat it slightly frozen/partly thawed.

Chocolate Ice-cream

Anette the Great Dane, 14 July 08, comment to ‘Proofs’ and subsequently by Robin, 15 July, as ‘Ice Heroine’

 It is entirely possible to make a non-dairy chocolate ice-cream. The simplest ways are:
Version 1: Replace the wine in the Sabayon Ice-cream with Cocoa cordial.
Version 2: Replace the vodka in the Vodka Ice-cream with Cocoa cordial and the lemon with vanilla extract.
Version 3: Replace the coffee in the Tiramisu with good pure cocoa (not the sweet instant) powder, but add it to the eggs as it might lump in the cold liquid.

Punch Ice

Anette the Great Dane, 14 July 08, comment to ‘Proofs’ and subsequently by Robin, 15 July, as ‘Ice Heroine’

It quite possible to make an ice-cream just by freezing ordinary punch (lemon, sugar, rum and water), but this recipe started life as a Jewish version of the Victorian party-dessert Ice-Punch. The texture is supposed to be very slushy, so that you can almost drink it.
0.5 bottle of champagne or sweet white wine,
Juice and grated zest of 1 lemon and 2 oranges,
75 g (0.33 cup) cane sugar,
4 tablespoon rum,
4 egg whites,
150-200 g (ca. 1.5 cup) powdered/confectioner sugar.
Mix wine, juice, zest, cane sugar and rum, and let it stand until the sugar has dissolved (over-night is fine). Freeze while churning until you have a thick slush. This you can store in the freezer for a few hours, but if you leave it longer, you’ll probably need to break it up with an electric whisk. Shortly before serving beat the egg whites to a meringue with the powdered sugar, and fold this into the slush ice. Serve immediately in glasses or small bowls.

Tiramisu-mousse Ice-cream

Anette the Great Dane, 14 July 08, comment to ‘Proofs’ and subsequently by Robin, 15 July, as ‘Ice Heroine’

Just replacing mascarpone with tofu in a Tiramisu doesn’t work unless you adjust the other ingredients. Once that is done, it’s actually better frozen, and if you are going to freeze it anyway you don’t really need the tofu to dilute the taste.
4 egg yolks,
60 g (0.25 cup) sugar,
1 packet silk tofu (that’s 125-150 g (5-6 oz)) (optional),
4 egg whites,
60 g (0.25 cup) sugar,
Instant espresso or coffee powder,
4 tablespoon dark rum,
Good quality dark chocolate.
Beat the egg yolks very thick and pale with the first portion of sugar. Cream the tofu until smooth. Whip the egg whites to a stiff meringue with the second portion of sugar. Dissolve enough coffee in the rum to get a pronounced coffee flavor. Chop the chocolate. If you want to make this in an ice-cream maker, mix everything except the chocolate, which should be sprinkled over after freezing. If you have a very cold freezer, there’s no need for churning, and you just mix everything and freeze it in a container. Serve with cookies, but try finding some more interesting than Lady Fingers. I like Cat Tongues and Florentines.

Fruit Ice-creams

Anette the Great Dane, 14 July 08, comment to ‘Proofs’ and subsequently by Robin, 15 July, as ‘Ice Heroine’

You can sieve a mush of for example strawberries or passion fruit and make a granita, but fruits still with their fibers are also ideal for sorbet.
Here’s a series of different fruit ice-creams all intended for sorbets:

1 can of peaches with liquid.
Blitz in a blender or food processor until smooth, then freeze while churning.
This is the easiest of all ice-creams, and other canned fruits such as apricots and pineapple can be treated the same way.

Passion fruit:
The pulp of 8 or more ripe (wrinkled) passion fruits,
150-200 g (ca. 0.75 cup) sugar,
250 ml (1 cup) cold water.
Mix and stir to dissolve the sugar, and let it steep for 1 hour. Sieve and freeze while churning.

1.5 pound watermelon meat without pips,
150-200 g (ca. 0.75 cup) sugar,
Juice of half a lemon,
250 ml (1 cup) cold water.
Mix and blitz together in a blender or food processor until smooth. Freeze while churning.
Other ripe melons can be treated the same way, as can pineapple.

I am so fortunate as to have a very superior old type of strawberries growing in my garden. Most of the crop is eaten fresh and straight from the plants, but in bumper-crop years I sometimes want to preserve some for later as an ice-cream. Commercially grown strawberries are types where things like stiff stalks, high yields, and tough skin are more important than flavor, so I really think you need different recipes for different types of strawberries.
Ingredients I:
1 pound full-flavored strawberries,
2 tablespoons of sugar.
Blitz, taste, sieve, and freeze.

Ingredients II:
1 pound fresh strawberries,
1-2 tablesp. fresh orange or lemon juice,
100-150 g (0.5 cup sugar),
75 ml (0.25 cup) water.
Boil the water and sugar together for a few minutes to dissolve the sugar, and let it cool. Blitz and sieve the strawberries, add the other ingredients, taste, and freeze.

Ingredients III:
1 pound frozen strawberries,
1-2 tablesp. fresh orange or lemon juice,
0.5 split vanilla pod,
150-200 g (ca. 0.75 cup) sugar,
Mix all the ingredients in a pot, and let it stand until the strawberries have thawed and produced some liquid. Boil together at low heat, and let it cool. Blitz, taste, sieve, and freeze.


Lemon Ice-cream/Granita

Anette the Great Dane, 14 July 08, comment to ‘Proofs’ and subsequently by Robin, 15 July, as ‘Ice Heroine’

I find this a bit boring on its own, but very nice in a glass of ice-tea.
150 ml (ca. 0.75 cup) lemon juice,
The grated zest of a lemon,
150 g (ca. 0.75 cup) sugar,
250 ml boiling water.
Dissolve the sugar in the water, add the other ingredients, cool, and freeze either as a sorbet or a granite.

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